Luck Be a Lady Pea Tonight

Once a year, when the growing season is right, I get a yen for lady peas, the most delicate of the

pantheon of Southern peas that includes blackeyed peas, purple hull peas, crowder peas and so on. Lady peas are the smallest, the most subtle, the most, well, ladylike. We bought a pound at the Farmers Market downtown a few weeks ago and I cooked up a mess.…