How Good Does Rosé Have to Be? With a Few Examples.

There was a time, children, and not too long ago, when you couldn't give away rosé wines in America. Travelers would return from the South of France, buoyant on their memories of the pale, delicate dry wines they sipped at lunches on shady terraces overlooking the blue-green Mediterranean, and when they returned to these shores would be greeted by indif…