Change Is Coming to Bordeaux, Stealthy or Not

My recent sojourn in Bordeaux brought pleasures and revelations of many kinds -- people, places, wine, food, history, tradition -- but the

most acute revelation, in fact the big story, occurred on the last night, when our small group had a tour, tasting and casual dinner at Domaine de Cantemerle -- not to be confused with Chateau Cantemerle, the Fifth Gr…