Campo alla Sughera: The Roster

Superb and serious wines from Bolgheri in Tuscany.

Campo alla Sughera, a 22-hectare estate (about 54 acres), was founded in Tuscany’s Bolgheri region in 1998 by German entrepreneurs Isabel Knauf and her cousin Frederick Knauf in a natural amphitheater of alluvial origin, not far from the sea. The vineyards are farmed along sustainable principles, while wine moves in the three-level winery by gravity. They produce a small roster of highly intentional wines, by which I mean that every effort in the vineyard and winery is aimed at making thought-provoking, performative, definitive, world-class wines. Such wines, of course, are not cheap — the reds are $50 to $145 — but collectors who value this region’s Bordeaux-inspired red wine blends (or the one that’s 100 percent merlot) will want these for their cellars. Since 2017, the consultant for Campo alla Sughera has been Stephane Derenoncourt from Bordeaux, a ubiquitous figure now in the realm of wine consulting worldwide. Perhaps his influence can be seen in the allure, the polish, the solidity and potential longevity of these wines. There’s also a white wine, a superior version of vermentino.