California Pinot Noir: A Not Entirely Happy Extravaganza, Part I

I won't say that great pinot noir can only be made in Burgundy nor will I assert that a strict Burgundian interpretation of the grape is the only legitimate course to follow. Yet there is a greatness and fineness about the best models of the pinot noir

grape from the Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards of Burgundy that examples produced in other parts of…