Big-Ass Zinfandel from Mazzocco

Antoine Favero, winemaker for Mazzocco, the zinfandel specialist in Sonoma County, doesn't do things by halves. These four

reserve wines from 2005, all from designated vineyards, plus a proprietary label, feature alcohol levels of more than 16 percent, and they come on like fruit-basket gangbusters. Their primary characteristic, though, is staggering pu…