And Speaking of Pinot Noir, Here's a Big "Huh?"
Jim Clendenen is undoubtedly a fine wine-maker, and he has made Au Bon Climat, founded in 1982 in Santa Barbara County, into a great source for powerful, eloquent and sometimes eccentric versions of chardonnay and pinot noir wines. Clendenen's best work

goes into small lots of vineyard-designated pinot noirs that have a way of satisfying and defying exp…
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