A Nice Afternoon in Memphis; or, "Great Burgundy Smells Like Shit"

I didn't say that. It was Anthony Hanson in the first edition of his book "Burgundy," published in 1982 in the old Faber & Faber series about wine regions. Hanson was trying to get at the essence of a particular quality about red

Burgundy wines, made from pinot noir grapes, that other writers tiptoed around with such terms as "earth," "barnyard," "beet-…