A Great Wine with Pizza, a Mismatch, and a Surprise

Notice that I didn't say "a great pizza wine." The concept of a great pizza wine, I think, embodies a tasty and fairly

straightforward quaff, rather rugged and rustic, that goes well with the hearty flavors of a pizza, full-bodied pasta dishes, burgers and so on. Not a damned thing wrong with that. This wine, however, the Nino Negri Quadrio 2004, Valtel…