I was in the Entre-Deux-Mers region of Bordeaux in 2011 with a small group of writers, visiting chateaux that produced wines under the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Superieur AOCs. On our last afternoon, we settled in at Domaine de Cantemerle, in the commune of Saint-Gervais, an estate owned and operated by Christian Mabille. While we were tasting Mabille’s wines and eating a simple meal, he startled us by saying, "We are trying to anticipate climate change by bringing in chardonnay and other white varieties to replace sauvignon blanc, which is not going to be appropriate in a few more years."
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